I'll be home in just about two weeks - and I'm ready, for the most part. I'll be traveling down the coast this week and into next. I'm taking the bus from here to a hostel in Coffee Bay (http://www.coffeeshack.co.za/) for three days. It's supposed to be one of the most beautiful stops along the coast. Then I'll take a bus to Cape Town and stay at a hostel there (http://www.longstreetbackpackers.co.za/) for three days. Then I'm flying back here to Durban. And I still have quite a bit on my Durban "To Do" list - museums, old buildings, botanic gardens, the sugar terminal, and I hope to spend much more time at the beach. I think I'll be busy.
I hope I'll get a chance to post some more photos along the way. But if not, I'll put an album online when I get home.
The Grand Prix was last weekend and I'm glad it's over. Those race cars are noisy. But - being the champion sleeper that I am - I was still able to nap on Sunday. I intended just to cover my head with a pillow for a minute to get away from the noise but I fell asleep. I'm quite impressed with myself.
Off to the beach now...
Monday, February 26, 2007
Saturday, February 24, 2007
Photos from The Y
I don't have much time for commentary, but here are some photos.
At the High School in the Township
At the High School in the Township
At the YMCA
And yesterday...
An on-duty policeman hit on me. Yeah. I've made it a general rule not to respond to any guys on the street who try to talk to me. But I figured he was a policeman - an upstanding public servant looking out for my welfare and safety.
Apparently, not really.
Minibus Taxi name of the day: "Fussion"
Apparently, not really.
Minibus Taxi name of the day: "Fussion"
Thursday, February 22, 2007
Facts of (My) Life
1. There are swarms of ants everywhere - including our flat. How they made it up three flights of stairs, I'm not sure. Fortunately, they float. So when they make it into my coffee or juice, I can easily remove them. And anything else that I ingest already has texture.
2. Soda cans are heavier than they are in the US. This may seem insignificant, but every time I finish a can I continue trying to drink it. I am convinced there must still be soda inside, because of the added weight. Way to throw a foreign girl off.
3. Cars drive on the left-hand side of the road. Even though I don't drive here, this has still taken some getting used to. For weeks I thought I was going to die every time I was in a vehicle that made a left turn when there was traffic coming from the left. And even still, I can never remember which way to look when I'm crossing the street. (But Meg gave me great motherly advice - "Look both ways - then look again!")
4. Phone calls are ridiculously expensive. Even local calls are charged at a per-minute rate (during the day it's about 6 cents/minute land line to land line - 20 cents/minute land line to cell phone). And that's on top of the monthly fee. Cell phone calls are even more expensive.
And lastly, the biggest "duh" moment I've had since I've been here:
5. Sea creatures actually live in shells. I'm sure I learned this at some point in time but I had dismissed it as irrelevant to my life in Minnesota. Imagine my surprise the first time I picked up a shell on the shoreline and there was a wiggly guy in it. Eew.
2. Soda cans are heavier than they are in the US. This may seem insignificant, but every time I finish a can I continue trying to drink it. I am convinced there must still be soda inside, because of the added weight. Way to throw a foreign girl off.
3. Cars drive on the left-hand side of the road. Even though I don't drive here, this has still taken some getting used to. For weeks I thought I was going to die every time I was in a vehicle that made a left turn when there was traffic coming from the left. And even still, I can never remember which way to look when I'm crossing the street. (But Meg gave me great motherly advice - "Look both ways - then look again!")
4. Phone calls are ridiculously expensive. Even local calls are charged at a per-minute rate (during the day it's about 6 cents/minute land line to land line - 20 cents/minute land line to cell phone). And that's on top of the monthly fee. Cell phone calls are even more expensive.
And lastly, the biggest "duh" moment I've had since I've been here:
5. Sea creatures actually live in shells. I'm sure I learned this at some point in time but I had dismissed it as irrelevant to my life in Minnesota. Imagine my surprise the first time I picked up a shell on the shoreline and there was a wiggly guy in it. Eew.
Saturday, February 17, 2007
Life Worth Living
So I have the flu again. Can you believe it? I have been sick since Tuesday and not too happy about it. I've made it through most of the No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency books (by Andrew McCall Smith) and highly recommend them. The story is set in Botswana and there's quite a bit of cultural info woven in.
Here's a Q&A question from Adam, received via email: "from the perennial beer geek - what are you drinking? and along similarly important cultural issues lines - what kind of music have you found? more about entertainment, friendships and sleeping-in - you know, those things that really make life worth living for Anne."
Great questions!
Beer
I have two new favorite beers. Number one on the list is Windhoek (which I pronounced "Wind-hook" and received a confused look - apparently it's "Vindhock", who knew). It's brewed in Namibia and made from all natural ingredients. My second favorite is Castle, the most popular South African beer, from what I can tell. It comes in many varieties and some are bad - but I think it's the basic one, Castle Lager, that I like. Black Label, Peroni, Amstel, and Heineken are all generally available. And when I'm feeling homesick, there's MGD (never thought I would be grateful for that). The sad part of the story is that I haven't yet found an establishment that has beer on tap and I'm not sure why. Maybe it has to do with the humidity? Or lack of turnover? Or distribution expenses? Adam may be better apt to answer that one. He was, after all, on the first wave of the home brewing revolution.
Music
South Africa produces an awesome version of hip-hop - I guess I would classify it as - called kwaito. It tends to have more political/positive messages than talk of bling, hos, and grillz. (Although, a lot of the songs are not in English so I can't understand everything they're saying). The artists I can think of off the top of my head are Tkzee, Mandoza, and Bongo Maffin - all are well worth a listen. Also, this is a great article - Kwaito: much more than music.
Entertainment/Friendships/Sleeping In
These are the categories where life here does not compare to my life in Minneapolis - well, except sleeping in. I've managed to do a fair amount of that even though the sun rises at 5am and they're constructing the Grand Prix race track right outside my window (more on that soon).
Durban has a respectable number of restaurants, bars, and theatres. The problem is that it's generally unsafe to travel alone at night. So I've been able to do a fair amount of tagging along with my roommates but they're both quite busy. The group I work with at the Y is great but they mostly speak Zulu amongst each other (though they have been kind in trying to include me). Planning outings is difficult because of the discrepancy in disposable income. I have seen quite a few movies here and one play. I have found a couple of restaurants/bars that I love - Zack's (on the harbour) and The Beach Cafe (on the beach, go figure).
My primary means of entertaining myself has been the beach and beachfront. I love walking along the shoreline with bare feet, laying in the sand - watching surfers, kite surfers, families by the water, kids playing soccer in the sand, skateboarders at the skate park, sand sculptors, fishermen, beach volleyball matches, and all kinds of vendors - crafts, ice cream carts, fruit stands. The beach brings everyone together. At restaurants I see lots of white people, in the streets - lots of black people, at shopping malls - lots of Indians. But everyone comes to the beach - young/old, wealthy/poor, black/white. And the waves don't seem to know the difference.
The ocean will no doubt be the hardest part of Durban to leave - the seemingly abundant flu viruses, not so hard to leave.
Here's a Q&A question from Adam, received via email: "from the perennial beer geek - what are you drinking? and along similarly important cultural issues lines - what kind of music have you found? more about entertainment, friendships and sleeping-in - you know, those things that really make life worth living for Anne."
Great questions!
Beer
I have two new favorite beers. Number one on the list is Windhoek (which I pronounced "Wind-hook" and received a confused look - apparently it's "Vindhock", who knew). It's brewed in Namibia and made from all natural ingredients. My second favorite is Castle, the most popular South African beer, from what I can tell. It comes in many varieties and some are bad - but I think it's the basic one, Castle Lager, that I like. Black Label, Peroni, Amstel, and Heineken are all generally available. And when I'm feeling homesick, there's MGD (never thought I would be grateful for that). The sad part of the story is that I haven't yet found an establishment that has beer on tap and I'm not sure why. Maybe it has to do with the humidity? Or lack of turnover? Or distribution expenses? Adam may be better apt to answer that one. He was, after all, on the first wave of the home brewing revolution.
Music
South Africa produces an awesome version of hip-hop - I guess I would classify it as - called kwaito. It tends to have more political/positive messages than talk of bling, hos, and grillz. (Although, a lot of the songs are not in English so I can't understand everything they're saying). The artists I can think of off the top of my head are Tkzee, Mandoza, and Bongo Maffin - all are well worth a listen. Also, this is a great article - Kwaito: much more than music.
Entertainment/Friendships/Sleeping In
These are the categories where life here does not compare to my life in Minneapolis - well, except sleeping in. I've managed to do a fair amount of that even though the sun rises at 5am and they're constructing the Grand Prix race track right outside my window (more on that soon).
Durban has a respectable number of restaurants, bars, and theatres. The problem is that it's generally unsafe to travel alone at night. So I've been able to do a fair amount of tagging along with my roommates but they're both quite busy. The group I work with at the Y is great but they mostly speak Zulu amongst each other (though they have been kind in trying to include me). Planning outings is difficult because of the discrepancy in disposable income. I have seen quite a few movies here and one play. I have found a couple of restaurants/bars that I love - Zack's (on the harbour) and The Beach Cafe (on the beach, go figure).
My primary means of entertaining myself has been the beach and beachfront. I love walking along the shoreline with bare feet, laying in the sand - watching surfers, kite surfers, families by the water, kids playing soccer in the sand, skateboarders at the skate park, sand sculptors, fishermen, beach volleyball matches, and all kinds of vendors - crafts, ice cream carts, fruit stands. The beach brings everyone together. At restaurants I see lots of white people, in the streets - lots of black people, at shopping malls - lots of Indians. But everyone comes to the beach - young/old, wealthy/poor, black/white. And the waves don't seem to know the difference.
The ocean will no doubt be the hardest part of Durban to leave - the seemingly abundant flu viruses, not so hard to leave.
Thursday, February 8, 2007
What I Miss Most
I'm doing alright with homesickness - 3 months isn't too much to handle. But these are the main reasons I don't think I could permanently move overseas:
Chipotle
I'm sure I have gone 3 months without Chipotle before but at least I always had the option of eating Chipotle. Yummy rice, beans, chicken, sour cream and cheese wrapped up so perfectly in a tortilla - sigh, that's perfection.
Starbucks
I know. It's terrible. But what I wouldn't give for a good cup of coffee to go. "Take away" coffee is uncommon here, as it sounds like it is in other parts of the world as well. Apparently we're all supposed to sit down and enjoy our coffee, which is ridiculous. My Aunt Karen wrote me an email and said the first thing she did when they got back from Europe was stop at a coffee shop at the airport and get a large cup to go.
And now on to the more obvious...
My Niece and Nephew
Aren't they the greatest? All of that energy, fun, playfulness and snuggly hugs rolled up into two amazing children. I miss dancing and being silly with Angelina and listening to Landon try out all kinds of new words.
My Boyfriend
Isn't he the greatest? He makes me laugh more than anyone I have ever met - and laughter is an important part of life. He's supportive of whatever I set out to do and is there at the end of the day for me to rant or rave to. Also, he's snuggly. And I'm quite fond of his cat.
Chipotle
I'm sure I have gone 3 months without Chipotle before but at least I always had the option of eating Chipotle. Yummy rice, beans, chicken, sour cream and cheese wrapped up so perfectly in a tortilla - sigh, that's perfection.
Starbucks
I know. It's terrible. But what I wouldn't give for a good cup of coffee to go. "Take away" coffee is uncommon here, as it sounds like it is in other parts of the world as well. Apparently we're all supposed to sit down and enjoy our coffee, which is ridiculous. My Aunt Karen wrote me an email and said the first thing she did when they got back from Europe was stop at a coffee shop at the airport and get a large cup to go.
And now on to the more obvious...
My Niece and Nephew
Aren't they the greatest? All of that energy, fun, playfulness and snuggly hugs rolled up into two amazing children. I miss dancing and being silly with Angelina and listening to Landon try out all kinds of new words.
My Boyfriend
Isn't he the greatest? He makes me laugh more than anyone I have ever met - and laughter is an important part of life. He's supportive of whatever I set out to do and is there at the end of the day for me to rant or rave to. Also, he's snuggly. And I'm quite fond of his cat.
Wednesday, February 7, 2007
"Africa" Time
Things move more slowly here. I've been told that's the case with most of the world outside of the US. Buses run on a flexible schedule, and may or may not arrive. Meetings don't start on time. Fast food is not.
But I think it's good for me. My patience level is definitely expanding. And I have begun to reevaluate (but not completely dismiss) the sense of urgency I feel in my own life.
As a part of our Life Skills courses at the YMCA we're teaching time management. The Zulu speakers in our group generally teach in Zulu - and I know when the topic comes up because it goes something like this: "zulu zulu zulu zulu ... time management ... zulu zulu zulu zulu." Apparently there is no direct translation, which isn't surprising.
But I think it's good for me. My patience level is definitely expanding. And I have begun to reevaluate (but not completely dismiss) the sense of urgency I feel in my own life.
As a part of our Life Skills courses at the YMCA we're teaching time management. The Zulu speakers in our group generally teach in Zulu - and I know when the topic comes up because it goes something like this: "zulu zulu zulu zulu ... time management ... zulu zulu zulu zulu." Apparently there is no direct translation, which isn't surprising.
Tuesday, February 6, 2007
Zulu Customs
I feel like I have quite a bit to get caught up on - we have been teaching Life Skills classes at a high school in one of the townships and I am being challenged daily. The past week has been full of important experiences and I'm not sure where I should even start.
So, instead, I'm going to tell a story.
The Zulu language book I'm using has a page of information on "Zulu Customs" - one of which is belief in witchcraft.
Belief in Witchcraft
This is firmly engrained... it should never be ridiculed.
Alright then.
A group of us visited one ot the townships yesterday and while we were waiting to catch the Minibus Taxi back into town, some goats walked by. The conversation went like this:
So it sounds like they have crime and runaway goats under control in the Zulu communities. We will all sleep better tonight, I'm sure.
So, instead, I'm going to tell a story.
The Zulu language book I'm using has a page of information on "Zulu Customs" - one of which is belief in witchcraft.
Belief in Witchcraft
This is firmly engrained... it should never be ridiculed.
Alright then.
A group of us visited one ot the townships yesterday and while we were waiting to catch the Minibus Taxi back into town, some goats walked by. The conversation went like this:
He then went on to tell me that the reason people "go mad" - become mentally challenged - is that they have likely stolen something from someone and the owner of whatever was stolen went to the witch doctor to put a spell on them.Me: Do those goats belong to someone or do they just wander around?
Mbuso: No, they belong to someone.
Me: Oh. Why isn't anyone watching them? Aren't they likely to run away?
Mbuso: They won't.
Me: Why not?
Mbuso: The owner put a spell on them.
Me: Hmm. A spell that prevents them from running away?
Mbuso: Yes.
Me: Well, what if someone steals them?
Mbuso: They won't.
Me: Why?
Mbuso: There's a spell for that, too.
Me: I see.
Mbuso: If someone steals one of those goats and cooks it then eats it, it will make goat noises from inside their
stomach.
Me: Got it. Makes sense.
So it sounds like they have crime and runaway goats under control in the Zulu communities. We will all sleep better tonight, I'm sure.
Q&A
This is the part of my blog where you (the readers) ask questions, and I (me) answer them. But it only works if you ask the questions.
You can ask me, "What did you have for breakfast this morning?" or "How do socio-economic status and race relations manifest themselves in the sugar cane industry of post-apartheid South Africa?"
To the first question, I would answer muesli rusks, a delightful bread product manufactured here in South Africa.
To the second question, I would remind you again of the delight inherent in muesli rusks.
Ask away.
Q: Hello Anne! What is the weather like? Elizabeth
A: This is a difficult one for me to approach - because I have heard that it has been brutally cold in Minnesota and I don't want to rave about how warm it is here when everyone at home is experiencing the unpleasant sensation of snot freezing in their noses. But it is absolutely gorgeous in Durban. It's summer right now and temperatures during the day are between 80-85. Nights don't get much cooler than 75. And there is lots of sunshine. Being on the coast, it is quite humid, but I am thoroughly enjoying it and I think my skin is more moisturized than it has ever been in my life. Anyone looking to escape below zero temperatures is more than welcome to visit.
You can ask me, "What did you have for breakfast this morning?" or "How do socio-economic status and race relations manifest themselves in the sugar cane industry of post-apartheid South Africa?"
To the first question, I would answer muesli rusks, a delightful bread product manufactured here in South Africa.
To the second question, I would remind you again of the delight inherent in muesli rusks.
Ask away.
Q: Hello Anne! What is the weather like? Elizabeth
A: This is a difficult one for me to approach - because I have heard that it has been brutally cold in Minnesota and I don't want to rave about how warm it is here when everyone at home is experiencing the unpleasant sensation of snot freezing in their noses. But it is absolutely gorgeous in Durban. It's summer right now and temperatures during the day are between 80-85. Nights don't get much cooler than 75. And there is lots of sunshine. Being on the coast, it is quite humid, but I am thoroughly enjoying it and I think my skin is more moisturized than it has ever been in my life. Anyone looking to escape below zero temperatures is more than welcome to visit.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
